When you think of the French Riviera, you undoubtedly picture the Mediterranean Sea, sunshine, and relaxation. However, today I would like to remind you (or introduce you) to another, lesser-known aspect of this beautiful part of France: nature is omnipresent here, with a unique character and vitality. A stay on the French Riviera, regardless of the season, can indeed be a new experience of nature. Changing your environment opens new horizons and allows your mind to unwind.
So, what are we talking about exactly?
1 – Towns and Villages Surrounded by Wild, Flourishing Nature
Whether your holiday is in Nice, Cannes, Antibes, Villefranche-sur-Mer, or other coastal towns, what strikes you at first glance is how close the mountains, hills, rural pathways, and lush oak forests are! Step out of the city, and voilà, nature is right there, ready to enchant your eyes and your steps.
In Nice, head up to Mont Boron in the east to discover breathtaking views of Villefranche harbour and the Baie des Anges, all within a natural park where native plants and shrubs of the Côte d’Azur thrive. You will find a variety of trees, including hackberry, holm oaks, Aleppo pines, carob trees, cypress, wild olives, and fruit-bearing trees, all with unique silhouettes and foliage perfectly adapted to the region’s poor, rocky soil and climate.
In Cannes, stroll along the Chemin de Bonnard (in Le Cannet) or simply on the Croisette: the exuberance of palm trees, umbrella pines, bignones in various colours, wisteria, generous bougainvillea, proud and fragrant irises, bright green banana plants, and spectacularly flowering winter camellias will dazzle you. The flora of Cannes is largely composed of imported species that have adapted beautifully to the area, creating a harmonious blend of bright and diverse colours throughout the seasons.
In Villefranche-sur-Mer and Beaulieu, a specific type of lush vegetation has given its name to a beach and a district: Petite Afrique. Enjoy a walk through the flower-adorned alleyways, and hike up to the hillside overlooking the sea, where you’ll find lush gardens teeming with life—hence the name Petite Afrique! The coastal path at Cap Saint Jean reveals a Mediterranean coastal landscape, equally spectacular, featuring evergreen pittosporums, agaves, aloe vera, papyrus, various species of pine, fragrant fig trees, sea crystals, and succulent witch’s claws… it’s as beautiful as it is strange and exotic!
Don’t miss Mandelieu and Théoule-sur-Mer in winter, as the slopes of their hills are covered in fragrant gold: mimosa reigns supreme here, an annual enchantment that never fails to impress from mid-January to February.
Across all the hills surrounding Nice, wild garrigue covers the ground and boldly encroaches on the paths: this is the realm of thyme, marjoram, pink and white cistus, flax, and wild carnations, alongside graceful tree spurge, fennel, and juniper.
2 – Extraordinary Gardens from Nice to Menton
This generous climate has nurtured particularly refined parks and gardens: strolling through them refreshes the heart and mind, delights the eyes, and even children feel perfectly at home. While all are attractive, here are a few that are must-sees:
The Gardens of Villa Rothschild (Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat): Situated on this privileged peninsula, the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild is surrounded by sumptuous gardens, elegantly arranged by ‘style’ and overlooking the sea. Visitors discover, one after another: a Florentine-style Italian garden, a Spanish garden with basins reminiscent of Andalusia, a dreamy Japanese garden, a charming classic French garden (with bubbling water features—a delight), a ‘lapidary’ garden showcasing stunning ancient statues and bas-reliefs, an exotic garden boasting a vast collection of cacti, a Provençal garden, and finally, a sublime rose garden offering a fantastic view of the sea.
After exploring these fabulous gardens, a refreshing swim at the nearby Passable Beach, located just below the villa, will be the perfect way to unwind.
The Cimiez Monastery Garden (free entry): Crowning the hill of Cimiez, the oldest Franciscan monastery in France is accompanied by its vast garden. Once dedicated to vegetable and fruit growing to nourish the monks, it is now an ornamental public garden, though it retains many vestiges, such as its well and its ‘medicinal plants garden,’ typical of the medieval period. The most spectacular feature is undoubtedly the array of pergolas adorned with roses, which, in spring, delight the senses.
Visitors can wander along the carefully raked paths, admire the ancient olive and citrus trees, and grand magnolias, while leaning over the terrace to enjoy the view of the sea and Nice. This eco-garden (free of pesticides or treatments) provides such a sense of peace and harmony that young couples often choose it for their wedding photographs.
The Hanbury Botanical Garden, near the Italian border: This garden close to Menton was founded and planted by a British family who fell in love with the Riviera and its plants. The Hanbury brothers enlisted the help of specialist scientists to make the most of this vast natural terrace overlooking the Mediterranean. Besides the beauty of its colourful flowerbeds, Hanbury Garden showcases one of the largest collections of citrus fruits in the world: orange, clementine, lemon, cedrat, bergamot, mandarin, and kumquat trees flourish magnificently. Splendid acclimatised roses and a majestic olive grove cascade down to the terraced areas leading to the sea. Unforgettable! It is best visited in May, June, or July, or on a sunny winter day during citrus harvests.
Let’s also mention the gardens at Villa Eilen Roc, at the tip of Cap d’Antibes, and the Botanical Garden of Villa Thuret, which serves as a true conservatory for the native plant species of the Côte d’Azur. Reservations are advisable for each of these gardens, or at the very least, check their opening hours.
3 – Wildlife: The Animal Kingdom
We have just discussed the extraordinary flora embellishing the Côte d’Azur, but we must also mention the wildlife, which is never far from the towns and thrives thanks to the natural character of the surrounding hills. The vast protected area of Mercantour allows species to repopulate, shielded from human interference.
Let’s start with an exceptional rarity: the Monts d’Azur Reserve (about an hour from Nice, near Gréolières-les-Neiges). In this reserve, a visionary couple of veterinarians have gathered the last remaining European bison, sourced from zoos and other reserves, alongside Przewalski horses, the last wild horses in Europe, which are nearing extinction. They have successfully reconstituted herds in this vast mountainous area dedicated to their protection, allowing the animals to gradually rediscover their natural instincts and form families again. If you have children or teenagers, don’t miss the chance to visit this slice of paradise: https://www.reserve-biologique.com/
The Wildlife of the Hills: The hills of the hinterland around Nice and Cannes are home to many flocks of sheep and their guard dogs, often Patous (don’t be fooled by their cuddly appearance; these dogs are trained to fend off intruders and are quite resolute: if you encounter flocks, keep your distance!). This proximity does not prevent many wild animals from living freely in the hills: wild boars, foxes, pheasants, and badgers—all the forest creatures of Europe roam (especially at night) in their Mediterranean domains, as in the novels of Pagnol.
Last but not least: The Animals of Mercantour. As the princes of the Alpes-Maritimes, the large deer species in Mercantour can be easily spotted while hiking, as all hunting has been banned here for a long time, and these intelligent creatures are aware of it: you are likely to encounter chamois, ibex, and mouflons. Also, the largest deer in the park, the magnificent red deer, calls out in October, filling the air with its strange cry to attract the females. Of course, marmots are part of the scenery, except in mid-winter when they hibernate. Smaller animals full of charm are harder to spot, but their presence is undeniable: genets, white hares, foxes, and red squirrels. Finally, the wolf and the golden eagle majestically roam the area, with nature reclaiming its fullness and diversity.
I hope I have briefly shown you how rich in plant and animal diversity the Côte d’Azur and its hinterland are. It is both relaxing and beneficial to discover, during summer strolls (preferably in the morning) or off-season (at any time of day), all these rare trees, unknown plants, colourful flowers, and free-roaming animals. One is astonished, one is amazed, one is delighted. It is worth experiencing the French Riviera from this natural perspective.
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